Day Sixty-two (0 miles): Time on My Hands

After a long few days of consistent head winds and other misadventures, I decided to take a rest day at Hell's Gate State Park. I spent the day riding all over the park, exploring the paths along the Snake River. I had breakfast down at a little harbor with an oddball shop keeper and enjoyed a cup of coffee on the river. After walking around for awhile, I went to the Lewis & Clark visitors center to write for awhile and charge up all of my electronic devices.

Throughout the day, I had rangers continuously walking up to me, wanting to know about my trip. After I had talked to one ranger the night before, he had apparently gone out and told the whole park staff about me! Needless to say, I had quite a few interesting conversations with a variety of people throughout the day. Back at camp, a German shepherd came running into our camp and Ella immediately chased him down and tried to corner him before the big dog ran away. I have no idea why, but Ella seems to be able to handle dogs 10x her size! It's really funny to watch her "be tough". Better watch out, she's a killer!

The rest of the evening was spent packing my gear, cooking dinner and playing my guitar in camp. I spoke to quite a few other campers near by who wanted to know about my trip as well. Finally when the sun drifted down below the horizon, I locked up my gear and hit the hay. All in all it was a little more than a semi-productive day!

Day Sixty-one (78.4 miles, 2933.2 total): One Way or Another!

5:45AM. Clank! Click! *shuffle shuffle* Click! Bang! The ACA group is up and getting ready to go once again. Ella isn't sleeping in this morning and is already crawling over me like I'm a jungle gym. I open the tent fly and she bolts out into the camp. I drag myself out of the tent like a slug and slow begin my morning routine. The ACA group already has a hot water made, so I quickly make my oatmeal and coffee for the morning. After a nice cup of joe, I get back to work packing my panniers. By 6:45AM, I have said goodbye to the ACA group and headed off for Kooskia. It's an easy 17 miles into town along the same spectacular roadway I've been on for the last two days.

I breeze right into town before I even know it. First thing I do, is head into the grocery store to stock up on supplies for the next week. I couldn't find tortillas, so one of the employees helped me search the entire store for them! Even the employees didn't know where they were! Eventually I found my little flat bread stacks and headed to the counter to pay. Walking out of the store, I ran into the ACA group again! They were stopping for breakfast and insisted I join them. We all sat down at this great little diner for breakfast and enjoyed massive amounts of food. Bob, an ACA friend, was treating breakfast for everyone and we couldn't thank him enough. Bob leaned over the table and told me I could order a second meal. At first I though he was joking, knowing the mass amounts of food I can inhale. But after insisting I order another breakfast, I couldn't resist! It was probably the most satisfying meal I have enjoyed on this trip so far! Sadly, I would be splitting off from the ACA group route today and probably won't see my friends again. We said our farewells and they headed off down the road.

I turned the opposite corner and headed for Lewiston. It was 70+ miles from Kooskia, but I needed to get there today. I was really anxious about how I was going to make it with my front tire looking as bad as my back tire was. Every bump in the road, I was checking to make sure my tire wasn't going flat. I had a constant wobble and a consistent *thump thump thump* on every rotation. The day was hot and the asphalt was even hotter. When the road gets hot like that, you have to be careful with your tires. Tires and tubes commonly go bad when under pressure in high heats. As I made my way down the road, the winds picked up, almost like they didn't want me to reach my goal. I struggled on into the afternoon. Every convenient store along the route became a water break for Ella and I. I had to keep pouring water on Ella to keep her cool under the summer sun.

By 2:00PM, I had gone just over 30 miles to reach the town of Orofino. I pulled into a huge gas station with a canopy and bought an ice cold bottle of Gatorade. I sat out side in the shade and cooled off for a little while. While I was sitting out front, an old man came to talk with me about my trip. He headed inside the store and came back out with a can of Beanie Weenies for me. It was nice of him and I personally thought it was pretty funny. I thanked the man and he got back in his truck and headed down the road.

The winds were becoming too much and I still had to make it to Lewiston before all the bike shops closed up for the evening. I pulled over at a guard rail to hitch a ride. A few people stopped, but none were headed into Lewiston. Finally, a family picked me up that was headed toward Lewiston. I thought I was going to die in the back of that truck. The driver was whipping around corners at 50+ mph, dodging traffic, braking sharply, accelerating even faster. I was holding onto Ella, my bike, and the truck for dear life. My face probably looked like something out of a cartoon as I struggled to maintain a grip in the back of the truck. We finally came to a stop about 12 miles outside of Lewiston where they let me off and headed down another road.

No sooner had I hopped out of that truck, another truck pulled over for me. This one was a massive flat bed truck, and a jolly looking guy hopped out and introduced himself. His name was Larry and he was a funny dude. In his passengers seat, sat a massive Leopard Pitbull named Lily. Ella quickly showed she was the dominant dog and scared Lily into Larry's lap for the rest of the ride! Larry used to hitch hike all of the country in his younger days, so now he's repaying the kindness to others. I was really appreciative of his help into town.

By early evening, I had finally arrived in Lewiston. It was another couple of miles to the bike shop, but I was able to ride through neighborhood roads that slightly blocked the wind. At the bike shop, I got a new tire and talked to their owner for awhile. It was clear this was a bike store not a bike shop. A bike store wants your business and most importantly your money. A bike shop on the other hand, wants your business but they also love their regular customers and take care of the cyclists in their local community. I paid for my new tired and headed off to find a local campground.

About 5 miles away, was Hell's Gate State Park, right along the Snake River. I quickly made it to the campground with the wind to my back. I was able to score a great site with plenty of trees, a nice grassy area, a fire pit and a picnic table. After a long an exhausting day, I set up my tent, took a shower and made my food for the evening. I felt much better once I had some food in my system. By the time I was done cleaning up for the evening, the sun had been down for an hour or so. I locked up my gear and crawled into my tent, almost immediately passing out on my nice comfy pillow. We hope you are enjoying our daily misadventures and continue to follow our journey out west!

Day Sixty (65.4 miles, 2854.8 total): Always Carry A Spare...

CLANK! CLICK! SHUFFLE! 5:30AM. Ugh. The ACA group is up making breakfast and packing all their gear back into the van. Ella is out cold and I slip out of the tent without waking her up. I throw on my jacket to block out the frigid morning air as I pack up for the day. I pack everything but my tent and Ella's blanket before making breakfast. Finally the furry little bugger stretches and crawls out of the tent. I quickly pack up the tent and tuck Ella away into her basket. She buries herself between the fold of the soft fleece blanket and promptly goes to sleep. I roll my loaded bike through the camp, say my goodbyes to my new friends and head off into the frosty morning.

The sun sparkled through the dew high up in the treetops, each branch a glistening gem. The shallow river bubbled along side the road as I made my way through the Idaho mountains. I frequently stopped to enjoy the crisp morning breeze and take in the stunning views all around me. I could cruise through this winding road everyday and never be tired of it. The forests were so pristine and untouched, it was spectacular. Despite the road hugging the curves of the mountains, this beautiful evergreen wonderland seem almost cutoff from the destruction of modern man. I rode on through this marvelous sanctuary never wanting it to end.

As the morning wore on, the winds continue to pick up through the narrow canyon walls. Despite my best efforts, I couldn't ride any faster than 11mph fully loaded. Now let me remind you this is all downhill, I should be cruising 20+ easily. Even though the winds held me back and wore on me throughout the day, I didn't mind it. The suns golden rays flew higher into the sky, lighting up my mountain pass in the most breathtaking ways. Not a cloud was in sight as I pushed on into the afternoon. Occasionally, I would run into my fellow cyclists but I kept to myself and enjoyed the peace and quiet.

Around 11:30, I came across an old ranger station that was now open as a miniature museum. I spoke with the volunteer while I relaxed for a little while and Ella ran around. The ACA group caught up with me again and we all ate lunch together. While the group was still moseying about, I set off down the open road once again. Along the way, one of my ACA friends, Mike, caught up with me and we raced down the mountain pace for awhile. Being unloaded, Mike was obviously faster, but it was still a blast. Mike eventually held up and waited for the rest of his group while I continued my journey alone.

Eventually, I had reached the tiny town of Lowell, with a population of less than thirty citizens. Thirsty in the hot summer sun, I pulled over and stopped in an old convenient store. The shop was so sweltering hot, all of the candy bars were in the two freezers against the back wall and all of the windows and doors were kept propped open. I grabbed my icy beverage, payed the women with few teeth, and bolted back out into the fresh air. Two cyclists that Bill and I had run into back in Wyoming, turn up at the store and we catch up before they head on into the local "diner". Refreshed, I clamber back onto the Land Yacht and continue my voyage.

About two miles down the road, my bike tire blew out. A slight wobble, a suspicious hiss and a power slide on the side of the road quickly halted my efforts to reach Kooskia. I took a peak at my tire and I sat down. My tired was shredded just enough to where a boot wouldn't fix it. No cell service and no spare tire, I was stranded. A truck quickly pulled over and a man stepped out from the drivers side, resembling a sleazy character from The Sopranos. He was kind of hesitant with his choice of words and I told him I was fine and my group would be arriving momentarily. He quickly hopped back in his truck and headed off down the road.

Thankfully, Nial and Mike from the ACA group showed up with a spare tire and enthusiastic attitudes. They were excited to change that tire and didn't even want me to do it! A few minutes later, with a lucky spare on my back wheel, I was ready to roll. I ended up riding with Mike to the ACA camp for the evening. They were more than welcoming to me and their kindness restored my faith in humanity. We all hung around the camp, caught up on the trip, told stories, and ate plenty of food. I couldn't have found a better group of cyclists to run into out in the middle of nowhere. Well after dark, I finally called it a night and crawled in to my yellow coffin tent for some much needed shut-eye. Ella and I hope you are enjoying our adventures and continue to follow us as we blaze our way west!

Day Fifty-nine (57.5 miles, 2767.3 total): Old Faces, New Places

6:00AM. I am already awake, staring at the ceiling, when my alarm finally goes off. I quickly shut it off and slip out from between the covers. Ella stretches out and rolls around the bed. Nothing was really unpacked, so I take a shower and quickly get dressed for the day. By 6:35AM, I am out the door and on the road again. I pedal down the sleepy streets of Missoula, making my way past the dark windows of closed stores and early morning joggers. The occasional local coffee shop sits open with short lines of regular customers on their way to work. The sun hides its bright face behind the early morning curtain of fog and clouds. At the edge of town, I stop at Starbucks for breakfast (giftcards, thank you!). I take my time and enjoy my breakfast sandwich and extra hot mocha. When I am finally finished, I slip back on the Land Yacht with Ella at the Helm. By the time we reach the main drag of highway, the wind has picked up considerably.

I power through the wind and slowly work my way around the curve of the mountains. The roads are filled with construction traffic and I slip between the neon orange cones to create my own bike lane. Leaving the last of the farmland behind, I worked my way up into the winding roads of the foothills. I made a push up one last big hill before I arrived in the small town of Lolo. Once again, every other store was some kind of casino or lottery vendor. I stopped in a gas station to fill up my water bottles with ice cold water before heading into the mountains.

I made my way through a pretty level stretch of forest, towering trees lined either side of the narrow road. The forest looked as though it had been recently burned, but the homes nestled within, looked like they could have been 30 years old. I realized that the forest fire must have happened before the homes were built and the damage just became apart of the new growth. As I cruised my way out of the burned forest, I spotted a few cyclist about a quarter mile ahead of me. I worked my way through the winding road to catch up with them. A few miles passed, before I was finally able to catch up with them. As it turns out, it's the same cyclists I had run into back in Yellowstone at Old Faithful! I didn't think I would ever see them again with my multi-day detour! We road along together all the way to Lolo Hot Springs. They stopped at the Hot Springs to check it out, but I headed on unwilling to pay the entry fee.

As soon as I passed the Hot Springs, the headwinds I had been fighting, doubled. It was like riding against a brick wall as I struggled up the mountain. There wasn't much shoulder to ride on, so I had to keep a close eye on traffic as I worked my way up Lolo Pass. I dropped into my granny gear and crawled against the wind. Mile after mile slowly passed by while I worked to reach the top. The crawling wasn't so bad because of the absolutely beautiful scenery all around me. Towering trees and trickling brooks distracted me from the constant struggle against the prevailing winds.

At last, as I climbed the final stretch to the top, I crossed the Missouri/Idaho border. I stopped for my obligatory picture, almost wiping out in the process, before cruising to the top and into the Lolo Pass Visitors Center. Relaxing out front, the other cyclists finally caught up with me and we all went inside to enjoy complimentary hot chocolate, coffee, and tea. Lolo Pass Visitor's Center is by far the most spectacular and welcoming State Park Visitor's Center I have ever been in.

We all stayed for about an hour or so to recover from the wind and the climb. The rangers let us know that no cell provider had signal for the next 107 miles to Kooskia. They provided cyclists with a WiFi password so we could contact friends/family before we made the 107 mile trek to Kooskia. I talked to my mom for a while and then headed back down the road. Fortunately for us, the next 107 miles were either all downhill or level ground. It was a major stroke of luck and I was ready to bomb it and make it to Kooskia in two days.

I started my charge down the mountain, quickly reaching 35mph+ whipping around every corner and leaning over every straight away. I was making great progress until the winds hit. I went from 37mph to 6mph in one single gust of wind. I felt utterly defeated. It was a contest just to keep a steady 11mph as I powered my way down the mountain. All downhill and I could only reach 11mph, how sad is that?? On the plus side, Idaho is one of the most beautiful pristine states I have even seen, especially the Clearwater State Park. I cruised next to the Clearwater River for the rest of the day. On my way down the mountain, I rode right into a forest of Giant Cedar trees. They were absolute beasts of trees, some had to be a good 8-10ft in diameter. It was a stunning sight to see.

When I reached Lochsa Lodge, I followed the road around back into the state park to camp for the evening. The Adventure Cycling group also happened to be in the same park and invited me to stay with them. It was a blast hanging out with my new friends. I got a sweet campsite and they invited me to dinner that night as well. They were an awesome group of people and I was glad to have met up with them. I spent the evening talking with everyone in the group and hiding from the rain under a massive fold out gazebo. When the sun finally set beyond the mountains and the dark veil of night filled the sky, I crawled into my tent, buried myself into my sleeping bag and went to sleep. I hope you are enjoying our adventures and continue to follow us as we head for the Left Coast!

Day Fifty-eight (88 miles, 2709.8 total): How Much Does That Weigh Again?

RING! RING! RI-- I find my phone and shut of the incessant ringing. 6:00AM. I groan and unhappily pull myself out of my sleeping bag into into the morning air. It's a cool, dark, brisk morning. Not a ray of sun is penetrating the infinite veil of grey. Ella marches around me as I take down camp and pack up the panniers. After quickly getting ready for the day, I load Ella up into her Captains Chair and we set off down the road. I know it's going to be a long day, so oatmeal isn't going to cut it and I pull into McDonald's. Once I had gorged myself on a McGriddle and Mocha, I lazily hopped back onto the bike and pedaled on down the highway.

A heavy presence in the air told me rain was coming, so I rode on as fast as I could to avoid being caught in a storm. My morning was spent racing through the winding highway in hopes of out running any chance of rain. My efforts proved fruitless, as the rain came shuddering down. I pulled over and slip the rain covers over my panniers, Ella's cover over her basket, and finally slipped on my own rain gear. The rain continued to sputter on and off as I bolted down the road. I had a wide shoulder, wind to my back and barely an ounce of traffic to bother me. Late into the morning, the sun finally began to slowly break through the dark mass of clouds. A few more miles, I had finally reached the break in the weather and packed away my rain gear.

The roads are littered with debris; glass, metal, tires, plastic, trash, and other collections of waste. I watched every move of my bike crisscrossing the field of garbage in hopes of avoiding a flat tire. The piles of glass, stray bits of metal, and shredded tires seemed to never end. The day was growing hotter and hotter as I pushed on through the desert hills. I had to keep Ella cool by pouring water on her as I pushed on. Ella would always shake out after I poured water on her and she would effectively create a cool mist.

About 20 miles outside of Missoula, the winds betrayed me and flipped around. I had to work twice as hard to keep any speed I did have. On and on, I kept pedaling toward my destination in the now brutal heat of the afternoon. The sun beat down on me, cooking my back and heating the road. No amount of water could rid me of the searing heat. I created a sun shield for Ella, trying my best to keep her cool. Exhausted, dehydrated, and hungry, I pushed on in hopes of ice cold water and shade in Missoula.

Five miles from my destination, a hiss reached my ears, then my bike began to rumble. My tube had popped in the heat of the day and the debris filled roads probably didn't help either. Annoyed I clambered off my bike, unloaded my gear, and proceeded to deal with the problem. My tire had a long piece of metal buried deep into the rubber. I pulled out the culprit and swiftly installed a new tube. Once my tire was pumped and ready to go, I hauled myself back onto the bike and struggled on against the wind and the heat. Over half an hour later, I finally reached Missoula.

My first stop was the Adventure Cycling Association Headquarters. The old Church styled building was shining in a new coat of white paint, on the corner of a beautiful, green old town street. The staff was more than welcoming when I walked in. They allowed Ella to come in and gave us a full tour of the entire building. We had our picture taken and added to the wall of cyclists who had passed through. After the tour, I hung out in the Cyclist's Lounge, where I enjoyed ice cold water and ice cream. The Co-Founder came out and interviewed me on my trip, before taking us out to the back of the building to take a few black & white film photos of me. He has been working on this project for forty years and will be releasing a book next year in honor of the 40th anniversary of the TransAm Bike Route.

After take photos, they had me guess the weight of my bike, before weighing the whole rig on a hook. I guessed a reasonable 85lbs when I lifted my bike up into the air. Boy, was I wrong! After seeing the shocked look on everyone's face, they told me my bike weighed a whopping 131lbs! One Hundred and Thirty One Pounds! That's insane! I knew I was carrying a lot, but not that much!

Before I left, I picked up a few maps for the West Coast in the ACA store. My next order of business was finding a place to stay for the evening. After searching and asking around, I realized there were no places to camp anywhere near Missoula for a reasonable price. I ended up using a cyclist discount and staying at the Bel-Air Hotel, a cheap motel in the center of town. After sneaking Ella into the hotel and settling in, I took my unloaded bike and went to pick up some Subway. Thank goodness for Subway gift cards and all who send them to me, I am so grateful! Back in my room for the evening, I devoured my sandwich and relaxed. The rest of the evening was spent writing and uploading my photos from the previous week. By 11:00PM, I was absolutely exhausted and finally crashed for the night. Thank you all of your support on our trip and we hope you continue to follow us as we head into Idaho.

Day Fifty-seven (85.1 miles car, 37.3 miles bike, 2621.8 total): Hot Roads and Cinnamon Rolls

6:30AM. My alarm is silently ringing between pillows and the bed. My hand blindly searches until I find the buzzing phone and shut it off. Ella stretches out like a fur scarf and rolls over. I pull myself out of the bed and get dressed for the day. After taking Ella for a walk, I gather up my gear and bring it out front to be loaded up. Shirley is out taking her sister to the airport and won't be back till 7:00AM.

When she returns, I carefully pack my bike and panniers into the trunk of her Honda Civic. It looked like a clown car when I finished; bungee cords holding down the trunk, back wheel hanging out over the bumper. Shirley insisted on driving out to Butte, so I couldn't refuse a lift. First, we stop at an amazing bakery in Three Forks, where I scarf down a giant plate of biscuits and gravy and a cinnamon roll the size of my head, covered in blueberry filling. I couldn't ask for a better way to start my morning.

We finish up breakfast and hop back in the car for the long drive to Butte. When we arrive, it is nothing but blue skies and a blistering sun, viciously heating the asphalt. I say goodbye to Shirley and give her a big hug before I set out down the road. The first thing I noticed about the bustling industrial park of Butte, was that every other building was a miniature casino. Everywhere I turned, cheesy signs flashed for a junky little gas station casino. I pedaled through the odd ball land of sad casinos and run down industrial facilities, till I finally reached the highway.

Despite the sweltering heat beating down against my back, I was moving along fairly quickly. The lush oasis of Wyoming and Paradise Valley were far behind me now. I coursed my way through the heavy traffic back into the desert plains. All around me were rolling hills of dead grass, sage brush, and the occasional patch of farmland. The roads opened up before me and the shoulders grew wide for a comfortable ride. I flew through the hills, a breeze to my back, and tank full of energy. Because of the fortunate lift given to me, I cut a few days off my new route allowing me time to catch back up with my old route. It wasn't long before I reached my exit into Deerlodge, MT.

The quaint little town was filled with strange attractions meant to bring in tourist revenue. Museums, stores, gift shops, novelty stands; all filled with trinkets and bobbles sporting the tiny town of Deerlodge. I made my way through the town until I reached a drive in, where I sat down and ordered a milkshake. A milkshake on a hot summer day is worth more than gold. While I was sitting under the gazebo, the weather took a dramatic turn and the sky filled with rumbling of storm clouds. I left in a hurry to find my campsite for the evening. Fortunately it was fairly close by and I made it before the rain came down.

After paying for my tent site, I sprinted under a pavilion just as the thundering crash of rain came down on the metal roof. The wind picked up and soon the rain was pushing under the extensive pavilion. I had to put on my jacket and rain pants as the rain and wind swirled all around me. From a clear bright sky to a mini monsoon. I waited until there was a lull in the storm and tried to leave the pavilion. As soon as I stepped out from my shelter, the rain came down in full force once again. I waited for about another 45 minutes until the storm finally cut out and I could escape.

My campsite had a thick pine tree where I could put my bike without worry of getting soaked and had a nice flat grassy space for my tent. Once I was set up for the evening, I went to take a shower after a hot day on the road. This campground had the nicest bathrooms I have seen on this entire trip. They were absolutely immaculate. In all honesty, this massive bathroom was nicer and cleaner than most hotels and homes. I was surprised and quite happy with the way things turned out. At last, I settled down and made my dinner for the evening. The rest of the evening was spent strumming my guitar and writing in my notebooks. When the sun finally went down and the mosquitoes came out, Ella jumped into the tent and I slipped into my sleeping bag for the night. Ella and I hope you are enjoying our adventures and continue to follow us as we head for the Idaho Border!

My awesome hostess - Shirley!

Day Fifty-six (59.3 miles - in a car, 2499.4 total): Sleeeeeeeeeep!

Grady and I are up early this morning. We quickly pack up my gear and load it into the back of a Ford Explorer. Ella is hidden in my backpack as we walk in between the car and the cabin. Ella wasn't supposed to be on the ranch all weekend, but we snuck her around in my backpack and kept her a secret. Once we had jammed the car full of gear, we hoped in and headed off for Bozeman.

With Grady at the wheel, we were making great time flying down the highway. The hour and a half trip was cut down to about an hour by the time we finally reached Bozeman. Grady had to work by 11:00AM so we were trying to make the best time possible. I couldn't be more thankful to have a friend like Grady. Grady and I unload my bike and pack the gear onto the racks before walking into the bike shop. I check in my bike for a few tune ups and leave my gear behind the counter. I say goodbye to my best friend and he heads off for the ranch again.

Ella and I walk around downtown Bozeman while I wait for my bike to get done. My dad found me a place to stay in Bozeman, so I really didn't have to go far today! My dad works with a guy named Dave, who's mother-in-law just happens to live in Bozeman. I give Shirley, Dave's mom, a call and make sure it's still alright for me to crash at her house this evening. She is a super sweet lady and has a spare room for me to use. I spend the rest of the morning passing by the downtown shops and boutiques waiting for my bike.

For breakfast, I went to a local organic co-op store and had a great breakfast sandwich and smoothie. By the time I had finished my filling breakfast, the bike shop called me to let me know my bike was done. I head off to the bike shop to pay my bill and pick up all my gear. It doesn't take me long to get out of the shop and back on to the road. Shirley's house is just a mile or so away and it's not long before I arrive.

Shirley is super cool and one of the most active women of her age I had ever met. She was constantly on the go and had tons of energy. We talk for a few hours, before she headed off to a baseball game and I went to sleep. The weekend had finally caught up with me, because I never take naps. When I finally woke up, it was pretty late in the afternoon, almost early evening. I was still tired, so I ordered a pizza and flipped on the TV. I ate the entire pizza by myself I was so hungry. Shirley arrived back at the house around 10:30PM and watched a little bit of the movie I had on. By 11:00PM, I was exhausted and went to bed. It had been a less than productive day, but I got some much needed rest. We hope you are enjoying our adventures and we hope you continue to follow us as we make our way for the coast!

Days 53, 54, 55 (64.8 miles miles, 2440.01 total): A Few Days With My Best Buddy

RING! RING! RI-- I slap my phone off the bedside table and immediately get to packing. Ella is circling my legs as I tip toe back and forth with my panniers. I packed the night before so it doesn't take long to get ready for the day. I step out into the cool morning air and load my bags onto the bike. Ella is excited to go for a ride, so I finally lift her into her Captains Chair and we set off down the road. It's all downhill into Gardiner so I take my time and stop for pictures. When I get into the town of Mammoth, herds of elk are roaming the streets. It was pretty cool to be so close to them as they played together. While I watched, more people came onto the streets and the elk started to move back up the mountain.

I finally decided to move on and ride down the rest of the valley into Gardiner. When I pull into town, my best friend is waiting for me. Grady takes me to breakfast before we somehow manage to jam my bike and all of my gear into a Honda Civic. Soon we are off and headed for Paradise Valley. Five miles up a spine shaking dirt road, we finally arrive at the luxurious Mountain Sky Guest Ranch. Grady introduces me to all of his new co-workers and friends at the ranch. It's great to meet so many new people and have the time to hang out with them. Being on the road, you meet so many people, but only in passing.

The next few days, my best friend takes me around the valley and shows me a ton of new things. We went to the river, explored a few towns, went camping, spent time with friends, and just had a lot of fun. Seeing my best friend has been one of the highlights of my trip. Between school, vacations, and work, I don't get to see my friends very often, so I make the most of it when I can. When the weekend had finally come to a close, Grady got up early and drove me all the way to Bozeman. I honestly don't think I could ask for a better friend. He is as true as they come and there need to be more people like him in the world. After dropping me off at a bike shop, we said goodbye and Grady headed back to the ranch and I went to get my bike repaired. Thanks for a great weekend buddy!

Day Fifty-two (34.5 miles, 2375.3 miles total): The Rider, The Truck, and The Elk

SNIFFSNIFFSNIFF! Ella has her nose pressed to my ear trying to nudge me awake. 7:15AM, I way overslept my alarm this morning and almost jumped straight through the tent. When I finally managed to escape the confines of my tent, I realized that every other cyclist was still out cold in their tents. Must have been a long day for everyone yesterday! Thee weather is absolutely gorgeous and there's not a cloud in sight. I'm in no rush so I waltz on down to the ranger's station, where they have free coffee for cyclists. It was incredibly nice of them to do that for cyclists so I washed all the cups in the sink. When I'm done with my coffee, I head back to my camp and pack up my gear.

A bit chilly, so I keep on my long sleeve for the ride this morning. By 8:15AM, I was back on my bike and headed for Mammoth Hot Springs. My ride is beautiful all morning long as I pedal along side the river. It wasn't long before I was climbing again and packed away my long sleeve. Bright, blue, clear skies and not a chance of rain in sight. I stopped at a long stone wall at the banks of the river for a snack and to take in the scenery. After my quick snack, I started my only big climb of the day. Along the way, cars sped past like I wasn't there and I had to be really careful on the corners.

I pushed on and on up the massive hill. Signs for the Caldera started popping up along the sides of the highway as I pressed on. One driver stopped on the side of the road and got out to take pictures of me! It was really strange because after that, I started to notice more people leaning out windows to take pictures of me and Ella. I finally reached the peak and flew down the other side of the mountain. Lucky for me, traffic lulled as I plummeted down the hill and I was able to take more room on the road. As I raced down into the valley, the road twisted around bend after bend until it finally met the river again. I finally reached the small community of Norris by late morning.

After eating an entire jar of peanut butter, I rode another half mile before I had to hitch a ride in the back of a truck. A guy named Brian and his family picked me up and gave me a ride. The roads had turned from asphalt to dirt and construction debris. It was too dangerous for me to ride my bike over and a ranger had told me not to ride the zone as well. We waited for the guide car for about 45 minutes. Brian got out to walk around and gave me a beer while I chilled in the bed of the truck and played guitar. The guide car finally shows up and we sailed on down the heavily damaged construction zone. The construction filled the road for about twenty miles all the way to Mammoth. Brian drops me off at the Hot Springs and heads off with his family. I cruise my way into town and stop for directions to a local residential area.

I was in my way to meet a friend of Grady's and stay with him for the night. I ended up riding the complete wrong way and down a massive hill. A ranger gave me the correct directions and I started pedaling my way back up the gargantuan hill. As I struggled against the hill and a ridiculous wind, an elk started staring at me and walking right next to me. I could have reached out and grabbed the elk it was so close! I am pretty sure the damn elk was laughing at me as I struggled to breathe.

I finally made it to Grady's friend, Ryan's house. He wasn't home, but he left a set of car keys and left the doors unlocked for me. I was able to take a shower and work on my writing for a bit before he finally arrived home. Ryan and I immediately hit it off then sat and talked for hours. About 10:30PM, Ryan and I went into town for pizza and beer. After scoring a pizza just before the place closed, we head on back to his house. I finish up working on a few photos and bits of writing before I finally call it a night. I had a great day of riding, met some great people, made a new friend, and had a good place to stay for the evening! Ella and I hope you are enjoying our misadventures and continue to follow us as we cross into Montana!